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Open Pubs - from East to West
The largest of the Dales running off the Eastern Pennines in Yorkshire, Lower Wensleydale's broad sweeping slopes contrast sharply with the rugged flanks of neighbouring Swaledale. Local industries and farming still prevail over tourism and holiday cottages,
certainly in lower Wensleydale. Choosing the starting point of Lower Wensleydale as the confluence of the river Ure and Bishopdale Beck, the valley gradually widens before fanning out below Middleham and Leyburn, the river Ure's next stop being Masham.
There are many charismatic pubs on this page to suit all types. As far as Real Ales are concerned, the ubiquitous Black Sheep has lower Wensleydale pretty well tied up, but if if that's not to your taste, then Coverbridge and the Fox & Hounds at West Witton are the best pubs to head for.
Any inns / pubs on this page which I think are definitely worth a visit have their photographs to the left outlined in colour.
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East Witton-
'The Blue Lion' (SE 145 860)
Free House. Eighteenth century coaching inn refurbished 'upwardly' several years ago and now renowned for food. Atmospheric and understated dark interior. Well worth looking in, if only for a drink.
B. & B. and Real Ales (Black Sheep etc.) Reputedly, this was the last pub in Wensleydale to possess a six day licence.
Tel. 01969 624273
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Coverbridge-
'The Coverbridge Inn' (SE 144 870)
Free House and CAMRA's North West Yorkshire Pub of the Year 2005. One of the oldest pubs in Wensleydale in an attractive setting on the river Cover. Formerly the Forresters Arms and the Masons Arms.
Lots of character and unspoilt interior with open fires, but a bit less hectic than in its modern heyday in the 1970's and 1980's under the ownership of Jim Carter. Now very ably owned and run by Nick and Anne Harrington. Well worth a visit. B & B and a good selection of Real Ales along with a riverside beer garden.
Tel. 01969 623250
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Spennithorne-
'The Old Horn Inn' (SE 137 888) A John Smith's Pub that sells Black Sheep as well. Small quirky interior and setting.
Tel. 01969 622370
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Finghall- 'The Queens Head (SE 182 898)
Free House - small and pretty village pub. Intimate unspoilt interior, meals, and a good selction of Real Ales - Theakstons, Black Sheep.
Tel. 01677 450259
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Constable Burton- 'The Wyvill Arms (SE 160 908)
Free House - owned by Nigel Stevens since 1999. Concentrates on good food (especially seafood), but anybody wanting to pop in for a drink is made welcome. Very good beer garden. The building dates from only the 1920's. Real Ales on offer.
Tel. 01677 450581
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Harmby-
'The Pheasant Inn' (SE 129 899) The Pheasant has altered little internally over the last few decades, with a traditional partioned and dark interior, and which today primarily serves the caravan park to the rear of the pub. Real Ales served.
Tel. 01969 623366
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Bellerby-
'The Cross Keys' (SE 929 115)
The Cross Keys has undergone a sensitive re-furbishment , and was selling Skipton's Copper Dragon beers last time I went in. Voted by CAMRA as their North West Yorkshire Pub of the Year 2006.
Tel. 01969 622256
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Leyburn-
'The Bolton Arms' (SE 111 905) Large imposing hotel at the top of the Market Place. Standard modernised bar with national ales offered. Given the impressive exterior the interior is something of an anti-climax.
Tel. 01969 623327
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Leyburn-
'The Black Swan' (SE 111 907) Food, Real Ales and accommodation. Noted for the old man-trap on the outside wall.
Tel. 01969 623131
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Leyburn-
'The Kings Head' (SE 111 906) John Smiths Plain drinking pub off the market place.
Tel. 01969 622272
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Leyburn-
'The Sandpiper' (SE 114 904) Free House in 17th century building but only opened as a pub in the early 1980's and now has a reputation for food. Black Sheep beer.
Tel. 01969 622206
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Leyburn-
'The Golden Lion' (SE 112 905) Dating originally from 1765 and known then as 'Fothergills', now a comfortable Hotel with public bar.
Tel. 01969 622161
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Middleham-
'The Black Swan' (SE 128 878)
Free House - Dating from the 17th century and backing onto Middleham Castle, now a characterful hotel with public bar
Tel. 01969 622221
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Middleham-
'The Richard III' (SE 128 878) Another hotel/pub backing onto the Castle. Dating from the same period as the Black Swan. Originally called 'The Commercial'.
Tel. 01969 623240
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Middleham-
'The Black Bull' (SE 128 878) Popular with jockey's from the local racing yards.
Stripped pine interior. Real Ales, pub meals and B. & B.
Theakstons beers.
Tel. 01969 623669
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Middleham-
'The White Swan' (SE 128 878) Free House - under the same private ownership as the Blue Lion at East Witton. Fairly bare traditional interior.
The inevitable Black Sheep Ales served on draught. Tel. 01969 622093
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Carlton (Coverdale)-
'The Foresters Arms' (SE 067 847) Free House - Dates from 1640 and retains much of its original character with beamed ceilings, flagged floors and log fires. The name is derived from the Ancient Order of Foresters. Popular for food but a great range of Real Ales as well. Out of the way but definitely worth the drive.
Tel. 01969 640272
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Horsehouse- (Coverdale)
'The Thwaite Arms' (SE 048 813) Free House - off the beaten track and as near as you'll get to un-reconstructed post-war Dales pub. Very basic but cosy enough interior. Only Theakstons on draught at last visit.
Tel. 01969 640206
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Wensley-
'The Three Horseshoes' (SE 091 895) Free House. Small traditional unspoilt Wensleydale pub offering reasonably priced food. Black Sheep bitter. One of the few pubs to retain outside toilets.
Tel. 01969 622327
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West Witton-
The Wensleydale Heifer Inn' (SE 058 883)
Free House - a seemingly well appointed hotel and restaurant, dating from the 17th century, with public bar (never been in it !). Recently changed hands and is set to style itself as a seafood restaurant with rooms.
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Tel. 01969 622322
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West Witton-
The Fox & Hounds' (SE 058 884) Free House in a 600 year old building with monastic ties, and with lots of character provided by landlord Andrew Blackburn and his wife. A good selection of rotating Real Ales. Everything a good Free House in The Dales should be - visiting The Fox is like slipping on a comfy pair of slippers.
Tel. 01969 623650
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Redmire-
The Bolton Arms' (SE 046 912)
Free House - Originally called the 'New Inn'. Friendly and unspoilt pub recently enlarged inside. Real Ales, food and B. & B.
Tel. 01969 624336
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Some Closed Pubs
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Redmire-
'The Kings Arms' (SE 045 910) Former small Free House which closed in the Spring of 2004, when the non-resident owners closed the pub before taking the signs down. Previous to that it had been operating very limited hours under the stewardship of a local voluntary caretaker.
Tel. 01969 622316
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West Witton-
'The Star Inn' (SD 058 884) Former Free House which was closed and converted into an unlicensed Hotel in the late 1970's. Last owner was Jack Cartwright?
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